Adventure / Scottish Highlands
The North Coast 500 in Shoulder Season
North Coast 500 · 8 min read
The NC500 loops from Inverness up the west coast, along the north and back down the east. It is one of the best drives in Britain and, in July, one of the busiest.
In May or September the roads clear, the light is long and the whole thing works properly.
The west coast
Applecross via the Bealach na Ba, Torridon, Assynt and the peaks of Suilven and Stac Pollaidh make up the most dramatic stretch. Single track roads with passing places, and slow going by design.
Allow three days for this section alone. People who try to do the whole loop in four days spend all of it driving.
North and east
The north coast has white sand beaches at Sandwood, Durness and Balnakeil that look Caribbean until you touch the water. Smoo Cave and Cape Wrath are worth the detours.
The east coast from John o' Groats back to Inverness is gentler, with distilleries, castles and easier roads. It makes a good final day.
Driving etiquette
Passing places are for passing and for letting faster traffic through, not for parking. Locals use these roads to get to work and to hospital.
Fuel stops are sparse in the northwest and many close early. Fill up when you are at half a tank rather than when the light comes on.
Midges
From late June to early September, still evenings near water bring midges in extraordinary numbers. Repellent and a head net cost very little and save the trip.
Wind is your friend. So is May.
Why it is worth the effort
It packs empty beaches, serious mountains and good whisky into a week without a long flight.
Book accommodation early. There is not much of it and it fills fast.
