Unwind / Bali, Indonesia
Ubud and the Slow Side of Bali
Ubud · 8 min read
Ubud has a reputation for being overrun, and the central streets are. Twenty minutes north or east, the rice terraces are still worked, the ceremonies are still for the village and the valley is very quiet.
Bali rewards the traveller who stays put and goes short distances slowly.
Where to base
Look at villages such as Sayan, Keliki, Penestanan and Sidemen rather than central Ubud. All are within half an hour and all are dramatically calmer.
Sidemen, an hour east under Mount Agung, is what Ubud was thirty years ago: rice fields, one road and almost no traffic.
Walking and water
The Campuhan Ridge walk is best at six in the morning. The Sayan and Keliki valley trails run through rice fields and along the Ayung river and see very few people at any hour.
For water, choose a quiet temple spring over the famous purification queue, and go with someone who can explain the ritual rather than photograph it.
Yoga, food and the honest bit
The wellness industry here is enormous and varies wildly. Small studios attached to guesthouses tend to be better value and less performative than the big centres.
Eat at warungs. Nasi campur, babi guling and sate lilit for a couple of dollars is better food than most of the cafes serving smoothie bowls.
Travelling considerately
Water and waste are real pressures on the island. Refill bottles, choose accommodation with its own filtration, and avoid places built directly on terraced farmland.
Dress modestly at temples, wear a sarong, and stand aside during ceremonies. They are not staged for visitors.
The case for doing nothing
A rice field at dawn with mist on it is worth more than any itinerary you could build here.
Stay in one place for a week and let the island come to you.
