Madeira

Madeira is the island people keep returning to, usually for reasons they struggle to explain. It is green rather than golden, dramatic rather than pretty, and the weather is mild enough that January feels like a favour.

Our pick is not Funchal in high season. It is the north and west of the island, where the villages are small, the levada paths start behind someone's garden and the sea arrives loudly at the bottom of the cliffs.

Where to stay

• Small guesthouses and quintas around Sao Vicente, Ponta Delgada and Santana, most of them family run.
• A handful of design hotels near Calheta if you want a pool and a sunset terrace.
• Self catering cottages inland, which suit a week of walking better than a resort does.

The atmosphere

Cool mornings, cloud sitting on the ridge, then a sudden clear afternoon. Nobody rushes. Dinner is fish, potatoes and a glass of something local.

Who it suits

Walkers, couples who like an early night, anyone who wants nature without a long haul flight.

Why we picked it

• Levada walks that run for hours at an easy gradient
• A coastline that changes character every twenty minutes of driving
• Genuinely mild winters, which makes off season travel realistic