Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast has been romantic for so long that it risks becoming a postcard. Go in May or late September and the postcard turns back into a place: lemon groves, ferries, church bells, a road that clings to the rock.

The trick is to base yourself somewhere small and let the coast come to you rather than trying to see all of it.

Where to stay

• Ravello for gardens, quiet evenings and the best views on the coast.
• Praiano if you want the sea below your balcony without Positano prices.
• Atrani, tiny and largely local, five minutes on foot from Amalfi town.

The atmosphere

Warm stone, boats coming in, a long lunch that turns into an afternoon. Evenings are unhurried and slightly formal in the nicest way.

Who it suits

Couples, anniversaries, anyone who wants beauty without having to earn it on a trail.

Why we picked it

• Ferries make the whole coast accessible without driving
• Food that is simple and very good rather than showy
• Shoulder season prices are dramatically kinder than July